Reflecting on Cimabue and the Mud Angels of 1966 Florence

He who works with his hands and his head and his heart is an artist.”
― St. Francis of Assisi

Cimabue’s damaged Crucifix

The flood of 1966 in Florence devastated millions of art masterpieces and rare books. The Franciscan Basilica of Santa Croce was one of many buildings left in terrible conditions. Swirling river bottom mud settled inside the church, causing heavy damage to valuable works of art. It took a long time and a lot of effort to remove all of the debris. Because of its geographical location, Florence often flooded, always leaving behind a muddy mess.

Volunteers from around the globe came to clean the city of refuse, mud, and oil. They removed works of art, books and other valuables from flooded rooms. Conservators worked tirelessly to restore these pieces to as close to their original condition as possible. These volunteers became known as Angeli del fango–angels of the mud.

On my first visit to the Basilica of Santa Croce, I passed Cimabue’s Crucifix, painted in 1272. It was heart wrenching to see the degree of water damage that had altered the painting. 60% of its paint was missing. Housed in the refectory of the Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce, the flood waters had risen to twenty feet, taking most of the paint off of the over 700-year-old Christ figure.

The wooden crucifix absorbed so much water that it expanded by three inches and doubled its weight. It took years for the cross to shrink back down to its original size. I could see spots with sections missing. The wood had cracked, it grew mold, and paint began to flake off even after it was removed from the refectory. Later on, the cracks were filled in with prepared Poplar from the Casentino Forest, where Cimabue obtained the original Poplar. Little restoration which can be seen with the eye has been applied to the Crucifix, and it still bears the effects of  water damage.

 

Cimabue’s Crucifix before the flood (photo credit Wikipedia)

Santa Croce after the flood above, and an exasperated volunteer with Cimabue’s Crucifix (photo credit Wikipedia)

 

 

Mud Angels at work (photo credit Wikipedia)

 

“What we were doing was dictated by the desire to give back the traces of the history of the past to future generations, so that it could be used for the spiritual growth of people who perhaps had yet to be born….it was the international community that worked to try to save Florence, this unique patrimony that belonged to the whole world.”

Mario Primicerio, Speciale Alluvione

 

Majestic Basilica of Santa Croce -photo credit Wikipedia

 

As I continued my walk through the church, I felt a deep respect and appreciation for the many old works of art. They were all beautiful and rich with color, painted by famous art masters of the late medieval and early renaissance. I was touched by how an international community of caring people pitched in together to help in a time of crisis, to save a heritage that is precious to everyone. It can be said that Cimabue’s Crucifix is a part of us all.

 

Homemade Chicken Stew in Cefalu, Sicily

The Tyrrhenian sea laps gently along the beaches of Cefalu as the curvature of the land cuts into the medieval town. Sounds of sea birds occasionally pierce the gentle ocean breeze. My overnight train from Rome left me here to escape the big city atmosphere and experience a few days of southern village life in Sicily.

Cefalu Beach Promenade

The long promenade leads me toward town from the small bus station. Before long, two local men approach me. They have rooms to rent and wonder if I need a place to stay. After a chat with them, I decide to go with the one that looks more trustworthy. His name is Angelo. I grab my bag and walk with him into the heart of the medieval district. He keeps up a fast pace for his robust build. His black pants are held up over a white t-shirt by old threadbare suspenders, revealing a pair of badly worn loafers. I sense a genuine spirit and like him from the start.

The morning air is cool and moist with the smell of salted fish. As we enter the old part of town, we turn onto Cortile Siracusani Street and pass through a tunnel into a tiny square courtyard where Angelo lives with his family. The narrow buildings are tall and crowd together.  Winding stairways, small iron balconies, and pots of flowers add a touch of charm. Angelo has a small apartment above his home with a kitchen that I agree to rent for a few days.

While exploring the village that afternoon, I decide to make a chicken stew in my kitchen. Stepping inside a small macelleria, butcher shop, I see meaty chicken legs behind the glass. “Prendo due gambe, per favore,” I’ll take two chicken legs, please. The balding man behind the counter wraps them in paper and points to a packet of seasoning. I shake my head yes, and pay him. My next stop is the verdure, vegetable shop. Here I buy potatoes, carrots and mushrooms. What a welcome change from home, where all my groceries are purchased in one store.

My delicious Sicilian stew!

After I return to my apartment, I run up the stairs to the kitchen and pull out a large pot. I brown the chicken legs in oil, add water and the seasoning packet, and simmer. Soon the vegetables are added. While it is bubbling away, I look through the window and notice the courtyard almost completely immersed in shadow as the sun begins to set. Lights start to flicker behind curtains as the night closes in.

The room fills with the pungent aroma of rosemary and sage. I ladle up a bowl full of rich meaty goodness. My stew is a success.

Marina with Norman ruins in background

Walking the medieval village deepens my understanding of close living. Narrow winding streets hug corners. Laundry dries from upper story clothes lines and voices carry down through open windows. Gray stonework is dotted with black motorbikes.

Medieval Laundry Room

These medieval wash basins, located close to the beach, sit on the site of ancient Roman public baths that were later converted by the Arabs. The Discesa River provided the water for washing.

My walk along the ocean involves some climbing upward through rocky pathways lined with brush. Ocean mist clings to my hair and clothes like a web.

Basilica of Cefalu ~ styled in Arabic, Norman and Greek

Christ Pantrocratore above the altar

Cefalu is one place I would love to revisit. The medieval village, the amazing shore-path views and the tasty chicken stew all culminate into an outstanding memory.

I encourage you to view the following video on Cefalu put out by The Compulsive Traveler. It gives excellent footage of the medieval village and, interestingly enough, the courtyard and apartment they stayed in appears to be the very same one I found. http://www.compulsivetraveler.tv/videos/1160-The-medieval-district-Cefalu-Sicily

Charming Civita, Italy’s Medieval Wonder

Civita di Bagnoregio, teetering on a tufa pinnacle

Like a fairytale kingdom floating over the Tiber River Valley, Civita is one spot on earth seemingly untouched since medieval times. Perched on a pinnacle of tufa rock high above a vast canyon, erosion and earthquakes over time caused parts of this once prosperous village to tumble into the valley below. Formerly attached to her sister city Bagnoregio by a saddle of land, Civita is destined to eventually perish but stubbornly refuses to let go.

My experience with Civita is short but holds lasting impressions. A footbridge 900 ft. long crosses the chasm and leads up to tall medieval gates. The view of the canyon below reminds me of a lunar landscape. Evidence of fallen chunks of earth and tufa surround the valley, leaving deep grooves that mar the landscape. The entrance to the village is a massive stone passageway cut through rock by the Etruscans 2500 years ago and embellished in the 12th century with a Romanesque arch.

As I pass under the archway, my feet touch down on old stone. Ivy crawls up walls and drapes over old archways.  Pots of red geraniums line stairs and balconies. All is quiet but the occasional drip of the swirling grey mist.

Church on the Piazza

Down the street, I notice a Renaissance palace on the piazza with only a facade. The rest of the house broke off and fell into the valley far below years ago due to the erosion of the hill. Windows reveal the sky instead of curtains.

A church on the main piazza is originally the site of an Etruscan temple that became a Roman church. Tall pillars across the front stand as a reminder of those early pagan shrines.

The ground beneath Civita is honeycombed with ancient cellars and cisterns. Some have existed since Etruscan times and are still used for storing wine and collecting rainwater. During World War II, a bomb shelter was made inside a pre-Roman tunnel.

Civita Olive Press
Old Taverna

The late afternoon grows cold and damp as I explore the further reaches of Civita. Following a pathway just down from the village, I find a small cave-like taverna with a warm fire illuminating the dark interior. The warmth draws me in. A 1500 year old olive press stands inside the doorway, once operated by blindfolded donkeys.

A young friendly man greets and seats me at a small table by the fire. Slices of bread are toasting on top of a grate over lapping flames. Shadows dance on the walls as the smell of hot bread and garlic fill the room. Sipping a glass of red wine, I watch as the bread is taken from the hearth. An olive tapenade is spread liberally on the garlic-rubbed bruschetta and placed before me. Maybe it is the combination of drizzling weather and the warmth of the open fire, or that it was hours since I had eaten. Possibly it was the entire magical experience of Civita. Whatever the reason, the rustic goodness was unforgettable.

Civita Frosted with Snow

Chiavari Charms the Italian Riviera

Waterfront and Promenade in Chiavari

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soaking up the sun-splashed beauty of the Italian Riviera is time well spent. The coastline is scattered with quaint and friendly seaside villages, each one unique from the others. Tall stately villas painted in warm pastel colors rise to meet the sun. Light and shadows play on the streets, bringing a depth and texture that can only be found here. The Riviera has a style all its own.

Happy Hour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One late afternoon in Chiavari, a charming little town just south of Genoa, I found an outdoor table on the promenade. I had been wandering the waterfront and decided a glass of wine would be a perfect way to soak up the ambiance. You can imagine my surprise when the server brought my wine along with this huge plate of appetizers. “Complimentary,” he told me. Needless to say, it was delicious…and dinner never happened that evening!

The stately promenade runs along the shoreline where a passigatta seems to be continually happening. Chiavari’s wide, pristine beaches have been celebrated as a Blue Flag beach (very clean) since 1987.  Sunbathers and boaters alike dominate the scene during summer.

Beautifully Painted Buildings

The village of Chiavari is very charming. Colors of ochre bring a richness to the towering buildings. Many have elegantly outlined windows and painted on shutters. In fact, these painted houses are very common all along the Riviera. It seems likely that this practice was an effort to prevent glare from the sun off of white buildings. However, sailors may very well have appreciated the ability to identify their own homes from a distance.

For over a hundred years, the warm Mediterranean climate attracted celebrities from central and northern Europe and Russia as a place to escape the drab and rainy weather of home.

Medieval Arcaded streets in Chiavari known as ‘carrugi’

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In the historical center of town, arcades and buildings date back to the 13th century. As I walked underneath the long rows of arcades, I noticed the width and height very dissimilar as I passed by. Many of the support columns were of different shapes and sizes.

Chiavari was for centuries an important commercial port. Hundreds of commercial businesses conducted a variety of activities under these old arcades, some of which still exist in hidden places.

The Genoese streets are perfectly straight and cross each other at regular intervals. Often in Italian towns, streets become a maze for lack of an established plan. But here in Chiavari, the layout is very definite and precise.  The lovely Genoese palaces that line some of these streets add a sense of palatial elegance.

Motor Cycle Madness

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every conceivable spot was taken in the motorcycle park located a few blocks toward the center of town. The roads all along the Riviera are narrow and winding. I can understand the need for small speedy transportation.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Garden just a few blocks from my room

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This Sanctuary was built between 1613 and 1633 by Leoni Cesario Marro. It was entrusted to the Carmelite monks until they left in 1797. Inside are several valuable pieces of artwork dating from the mid-1600’s.

Bakery shop window

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This bakery put Chiavari on the map for me as well. My prosciutto, mozzarella and pesto panini was delicious and I shamelessly devoured it in no time at all.

Outdoor food market

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chiavari has a thriving outdoor market community. Like a hive of bees, locals and tourists alike gathered tightly about the tables, picking and choosing brightly colored fruits and vegetables, hearty slabs of cheese, fresh sliced salami and meats, bread, honey and many other desirable items. Vendors gave generous portions of samples. I snagged myself a hunk of white cheese that was delicious.

Bustling shoppers among the fruits and vegetables

Merchants restock their produce in the market

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As soon as boxes were emptied, they were immediately refilled by the merchants who kept more piled underneath their tables.

A temporary lull in the market

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chiavari is a haven of rest and relaxation in an exotic locale. The palm-lined seafront and winding medieval streets both lead to new discoveries that reveal the heart of the Italian Riviera.

Florence By Night

Florence Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore

An evening in Florence is extremely magical. Everything comes alive, from the medieval architecture to the roving bands of locals and tourists alike. You are never far from eye-catching structures that soar skyward into the dark abyss. Charming cafes and trattorias full of chatting people line the winding cobbled streets. Merry-making is in the air.

Music on the Ponte Vecchio Bridge –  Toss in a coin or buy a CD

The Ponte Vecchio, or ‘old bridge,’ was once lined with butcher shops. This is no longer the case, thank goodness. Today it is bedecked with lovely jewelry shops. You need not wander far before you hear the beat and rhythm of a nearby local band, wholeheartedly doing their best to entertain you.

Ponte Vecchio with its many shops from the bank of the Arno River

Giorgio Vasari, early sixteenth century architect, was commissioned by the Medici to build a corridor that ran from the Uffizi Gallery to the Medici Palace on the opposite side of the Arno River. Here you can see the corridor continue over the top of the shops with its neat line of square windows.

The Palazzo Vecchio, or “old palace,” still operates as the city hall

Medieval and dauntless stands the Palazzo Vecchio, an important landmark of Florence since 1322. Constructed by Florentine architect Arnolfo di Cambio, the impressive Romanesque-style crenelated fortress is rock-solid. A huge bell at the top of the tower was used to call the citizens to meetings or warn them of fire, flood or enemy attack.

To the right you can see the looming arches of the outdoor “sculpture museum,” called the Loggia dei Lanzi.

Notice below the magnificent display of light and shadow on these figures in the Loggia. They appear very dramatic, especially at night.

Statue in the Loggia dei Lanzi– The Rape of Polyxena by Pio Fedi

Across from the Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria is the Loggia dei Lanzi, built in 1382 and designed by Orcangna. It was named after the Lancers, the bodyguards of Cosimo I who took up lodging on this spot. The Loggia is actually an outdoor museum, with twisting and grasping statues that appear especially spectacular at night-time.

Rape of the Sabine Women by Giambologna

Menelaus supporting the body of Patroclus was discovered in Rome and has gone through some restoration

Hercules and Cacus by Baccio Bandinelli stands in front of the Palazzo Vecchio

Perseus with the head of Medussa by Benvenuto Cellini

The famous Uffizi Gallery

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Cosimo I de’ Medici hired architect Giorgio Vasari to build offices for the Florentine magistrates in 1560. Later, after the fall of the ruling Medici’s, it became a museum officially open to the public in 1765. Today it houses many famous paintings by the masters. Giotto, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Titian and Caravaggio lead the parade.

Florence by night is an entirely different world. It is a world of artistic appeal to the senses, of mystery and intrigue. A world revealing shades of a former time.