Find Roman Romance at ‘That’s Amore!’

Guess Who? Photo credit http://www.thats-amore.it/en

 

It was our last Sunday night in Rome and we needed to celebrate. After we had spent our day transporting ourselves on the Roman subway, exploring old basilicas and outdoor markets, piazzas and museums, we were foot-weary and ravenously hungry. A good dose of gourmet Rome was in order and we had settled on a particular restaurant not far from the Trevi fountain by reservation. That’s Amore, a quaint and homey restaurant with a superb menu of cibo delizioso.
Our waiter introduced himself as ‘Brad Pitt’ and kept us completely entertained throughout the evening.

After stepping through the arched doorway, our charming waiter greeted us with a big smile and seated us in a corner nook for two. He told us about a couple that had sat in the same corner a year ago and just recently returned to sit in the same place, married! We were here to celebrate our tenth anniversary. These cozy corner nooks can be magical!

The ambiance and warmth of the room appealed to me immediately. Candlelight flickered off the tables, animating faces and illuminating the creamy golden walls. The low hum of pleasant conversation filled the space. My eyes were drawn to the scattering of several photos covering the walls of famous actors from sixty or more years ago, all in black and white.

After ordering our wine, I wandered about to get a closer look at the photos. Most all of them were of couples in a romantic scene, but some were of ladies in long glamorous gowns. While I was studying them, our waiter tapped me on the shoulder and introduced himself as Brad Pitt. I smiled and told him I was Sharon Stone. With a big grin, he turned and went skipping off to the bar (honestly)!

As I continued to study the photos, some I recognize but others I wasn’t sure of. I have included some of them here in my post. As you read on, see if you can identify them.

A warm and cheery ambiance with personalized service, which I loved. You are not just another face here! The full bar at the end of the room was a nice feature.

Our waiter was very helpful with the menu and the meal selections proved to be as delicious as he promised they would be. I ordered the Spaghetti ai Frutti di mare, a saute of fresh mussels, clams, shrimp, and squid, tossed with spaghetti, olive oil, and garlic, along with a Mediterranean salad accompanied by a superb Chianti. The pasta was just right, al dente, but not too much. I would include a photo but I ate most of it before I remembered to take one.

Mediterranean Salad….delicious!

As the evening wore on and our bottle of Chianti had run dry, we decided on some dessert. We tried the Millefoglie con crema e scaglia di cioccolato, a homemade cake with cream chantilly and flakes of chocolate with cups of steaming coffee. Words cannot express the delightfully fluffy texture and wonderful flavor of this dessert. We lingered over coffee for some time with no need to be anywhere else. Before we left, we toasted with complimentary glasses of limoncello. The evening was all that I had hoped for and more. Enchanting!

We toast with complimentary glasses of limoncello

These are some of the photos that I saw on the walls in the restaurant. Do you recognize any of these celebrities?

Notice the bottle of Chianti on the table made the old way? This one has a candle in it. But fortunately, Chianti has improved drastically in taste since these days of the woven basket holders.

Audrey Hepburn? or ?

Probably not too difficult to figure these two out!

Our night of Roman Romance felt like swirling through the glitz and glamour of old-time Hollywood. Our waiter, the food, our wine and the celebrities on the wall came alive, dancing before us. Love was in the air. In Rome. That’s Amore!

Have you found romance in Rome? Where is your favorite place to dine? I’d love to hear about it so feel free to share in the comments below.

For more information, click here.

That’s Amore
115, Via in Arcione – 00187 Roma

Top Photo: Claudia Cardinale and Alain Delon from The Leopard

My Italian Christmas Dream List

When I was a child, I created my Christmas wish list by circling all my wished for items in a Sears catalog. The ones I really wanted had more circles around them, lined by huge stars. Well, some things never change, and I have mentally been dreaming about my Italian wish list for the last few weeks. Although I don’t have a catalog, I do have my photos that bring back amazing memories and put a smile on my face every time I look at them.

Navigating Genoa, Columbus’ Maritime Sea Town

When I was in grade school, I fell in love with Christopher Columbus, the early explorer and navigator. He sounded so adventurous – a man who sailed the high seas, braving storms and seasickness as he made his way to the New World. So when I had the opportunity to stay in Genoa for a few days, knowing this was his place of birth, I was ready to do my own exploring.

Genoa is famous for several reasons, one of which is the magnificent harbor, the Porto Antico. It is a real network of wharfs, piers and board walks backed by tall commercial buildings and stately villas.

This harbor has quite a history. It was the center of ancient trades from 400 AD up to the Middle Ages, reaching the height of power in 1100. By then Genoa prospered as a major Maritime Republic through trade, shipbuilding and banking. As the most powerful navy in the Mediterranean, Genoa controlled the sea. As I walked around the harbor, it was easy to imagine mighty ships bedecked with flags and surrounded by a bustle of boats coming and going on the sea lanes.

I found this 17th century style Spanish Galleon fittingly named II Galeone Neptune. Built in Tunisia for Roman Polanski’s film “Pirates,” the 1500 ton ship is currently a tourist attraction with a 5 euro charge to walk aboard and explore its murky depths while hobnobbing with the pirate crew. In 2011 this galleon portrayed the ship, “Jolly Roger” in the TV miniseries, “Neverland.”

II Galeone Neptune

Glorious Sunset over the Old Harbor

The Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) of Genoa with the Turtle Pool

Turtles, turtles everywhere! The pool was swimming with them. It must have been a recent hatching. They kept crawling out only to slip back into the water, attracting a lot of attention.

Aristocratic Turtles Conversing while Sunbathing–AND balancing on the pool rim!

The Palazzo Reale is a large aristocratic residence which has been splendidly decorated by three great Genoese dynasties. The Balbis built it between 1643 and 1650, afterwards passing to the Durazzos, who decorated it between the end of the 17th to 18th centuries. Finally the Savoy dynasty of the 19th century put on the finishing touches. Impeccably dressed and highly maintained, the palace is a pleasure to walk through.

There are over 100 paintings in the palace, most by 17th century Genoese artists as well as frescoes by some of the most important Baroque and Rococo artists of the time.

The dazzling Hall of Mirrors in the Palace. It made me think of Phantom of the Opera.

Uniquely Sculpted Mermen

Via Garibaldi is Genoa’s old wealthy district with stately mansions. I enjoyed strolling up and down this street numerous times.

Galleria Mazzini Genova is a beautiful covered walkway with rows of antique shops and cafe’s

Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari is famous for its magnificent fountain. As the main piazza of Genoa, it is the financial and business center of the city. Armed police are stationed outside the banks.

Christopher Columbus supposedly lived here. Overgrown with ivy, what’s left of his house is just outside the medieval district.

12th century Torri di Porta Soprana is the gateway to the old medieval district of Genoa. Some of the ancient outer walls are still standing.

Cobbled streets inside the medieval district. Notice the dip and sway of the street. Several churches in this area had similar floors. Many feet have pitter patted over them down through the centuries.

Looking outward from the old to the modern Genoa

Genoa is a modern city with a lingering presence of past generations. The medieval center is remarkably well-preserved and not to be missed. The striking contrasts between old and new is strongly evident throughout the city and a delight to explore.

Charles Dickens summed up the city of Genoa very well in his quote..

“It is a place that ‘grows upon you’ every day. There seems to be always something to find out in it. There are the most extraordinary alleys and by-ways to walk about in. You can lose your way (what a comfort that is, when you are idle!) twenty times a day, if you like; and turn up again, under the most unexpected and surprising difficulties. It abounds in the strangest contrasts; things that are picturesque, ugly, mean, magnificent, delightful, and offensive, break upon the view at every turn.”
― Charles Dickens, Pictures from Italy

 

Elegant Villas of the Italian Riviera

Artistically painted building, some typically referred to as Trompe L’Oeil 

While driving along the Italian Riviera between Genoa to the north and Portovenere to the south, I was greatly entertained and delighted by the brightly painted villas along the way. Typical of the area, many are dressed in colorful window embellishments, curlicues, and even some with painted on shutters. Pastel colors dominated the coastline and were lovingly as well as artistically kept in immaculate condition.

Jump inside and take a drive with me on a lovely day along the Italian Riviera.

Beautifully painted buildings stand on a flower enhanced turn around in Chiavari

Top of a clock tower impeccably painted and creatively adorned

Stately villa on the way to Portofino

Imagine the view this villa must have as it faces out toward the sparkling Mediterranean

Earth, sea and sky…and lovely villas create elegance

Most of the villas sit high above the Mediterranean on terraced property of fruit groves and gardens.

Intoxicating view of the village below

Iron rod balconies welcome views of the Mediterranean and the terraced landscape. Love those tall green shutters. At least these appear to be real and not painted on as some shutters are.

Even the villas put their laundry out to dry. It is a very common sight on the Italian Riviera

This Riviera di Levante, (“the coast of the rising sun”), another name for this part of the Riviera, is an experience that i’ve found a joy to relive. Pastels, artwork, terraced hillsides of olives, fruits and vines, and intoxicating ocean views all weave together a very pleasant place to linger.

If you have enjoyed this colorful escape to one of Italy’s beautiful landscapes, please like below and pass it on for someone else to enjoy:)

Italy’s Ventotene Island ~ This Tiny Package Holds Big Surprises

One of Ventotene’s scenic harbors

If the best things in life come in small packages, then Ventotene is a perfect example. Just a tiny island in the Tyrrhenian sea off the west coast of Italy, Ventotene is all of two miles long and almost a half mile wide. It is one of six islands called the Pontine Islands, of which Ponza is the largest and most developed.

The Romans discovered Ventotene over 2,000 years ago and named it Pandataria. Emperor Augustus banished his promiscuous daughter Giulia here in 2 BC. The crumbled remains of her prison-palace, Villa Giulia, can still be seen today.

The early Romans heavily used and depended on this small piece of land for very good reasons. Off the beaten tourist track today, this easily missed island packs a big punch.

This Is Your Time Travel Blog Team ~ Avary Sassaman, Amy Gulick, Susan Nelson, Helena Norrman and Linnea Malmberg

My blog team, This Is Your Time, arrived in Ventotene for two days in September. We took a boat from Formia on the mainland and arrived in the modern port before reaching the old Roman port on foot. Built into the side of the volcanic island, the Roman port is lined with fisherman’s boats and scuba shops.

Ventotene is very photogenic and reminded me a little of the Greek islands. Breathtaking 360-degree views of the Mediterranean sea can be seen from several spots.

Ventotene shows some island charm ~ Borgo dei Cacciatori hotel

Strolling through the village on narrow uncrowded streets

Ventotene is very walkable. The streets are undeveloped and narrow, allowing only one small car to pass at a time. But the traffic is seldom, making for perfect walking and hiking.

Dinner happens late in Italy, so with good appetites we arrived at Restaurant il Giardino (The Garden Restaurant). Authentic and tasty island cuisine is served consisting of fish and seafood freshly selected from the Port of Ventotene each morning. Chef Candida Sportiello transforms this seafood into magical dishes that dazzle the eye while her son, Luca, serves them with flair. Take a look!

Something exotic being prepared in the kitchen of Restaurant Il Giardino, our choice for dinner

Freshly caught fish from surrounding ocean waters topped with tender green beans and island herbs dressed to perfection. Superb!!

Creativity happens in the kitchen

Several other dishes arrived just as gorgeously displayed. Each one was well worth mouth-watering praise.

Semifreddo (different consistency than ice cream and half-frozen ) Pistachio Gelato with crisp wafer and berry sauce. Pistachios are from Bronte (Sicily).

After dinner, we strolled through the village streets to the central square, Piazza Castello. The Town Hall commands center stage in matching yellow with white trim. A line of flags on poles grace the front. The piazza has a few cafes, alimentari and restaurants. But this is not the place for nightlife. It is quiet and serene. A lovely place to be for a mellow evening experience.

After dinner walk through the central piazza

A street corner in the village

The next day for lunch, we were greeted with big smiles by Pina (center) and her family at their restaurant, Un Mare di Sapori. It is inside a grotto on the old Roman port. A table was prepared for us with great care. Wine was poured and island cuisine began to arrive in various dishes. The lentil is cultivated on the island, and the resulting soup that Pina served was absolutely delicious….earthy and flavorful.

Pina and her family at Un Mare di Sapori, their enoteca on the old Roman Port. I was touched by their gracious manners and welcoming smiles. 

Antipasti from the kitchen…four different kinds of cheese, olives, salami, artichoke, and eggplant rolls.

Antipasti

Fresh sliced bread with octopus in a savory olive sauce

We were served a bottle of delicious Falerno wine, made from a grape varietal cultivated in first century Rome. It was the favorite drink of the emperors and was also a red wine. In fact, Pliny mentions in his writings that it was the only wine that would ignite when a match was put to it. Falerno was obviously much higher in alcohol then!

Pina’s restaurant is also a shop with shelves of local products for sale.

Grotto on the old Roman Port where freshly caught fish are sold

A lighthouse rises on the edge of the rock at the old Roman Port. Santo Stefano Island with its sprawling prison stands just off to the left. Mussolini detained his adversaries here during WWII. The prison is now abandoned.

Lighthouse on the old Roman Port

Below the surface of the waters of Ventotene, evidence was found of five ancient Roman ships with cargoes of wine, olive oil and garum (fish sauce) still intact in large clay amphora. Ventotene was perfectly located on the trade route between Rome and North Africa.

Time to walk off all this good Ventotene cuisine!

Ventotene is rich with history, beginning with the Phoenicians and Greeks and continuing into the present. It was used as a listening post by a German garrison before being captured by allies in 1943.

La Terazza di Mimi is situated on a cliff wall overlooking the main beach of the island, Cala Nave, and the sea

The next day after a full morning of sight-seeing, we dined at La Terazza di Mimi. The ocean view and exotic dishes combined with sea-scented gentle breezes created a memory that will linger for many years.

Awaiting our lunch with good appetites. We loved the ambience on the terrace with Mediterranean sparkle and gentle breeze. Santo Stefano in the distance.

Squid ink pasta with crustaceans and vegetables. The ink is mixed into the pasta, creating a dark but tender noodle. I found this dish very tasty.

Pasta with clams and mussels in a delicate wine sauce embellished with island herbs.

Pietro Penacchio chats with us at his restaurant, La Terazza di Mimi

Pietro owns the restaurant and has named it after his father Mimi. He shared his many exciting plans for the development of his properties on the island that is sure to increase tourism with a new, ecologically sound twist. He has a great love and respect for the natural environment of Ventotene.

Bright island flowers give sprightly accent to the shimmering Mediterranean.

Ventotene has several terraced views that instill a strong sense of exotic ambience. My favorite location is the hotel Borgo dei Cacciatori. Owned by Pietro as well, it is in the process of a complete restoration. The new Borgo dei Cacciatori will be eco-friendly which includes the swimming pool. Earthy tones and colors of the island will be used to decorate the hotel, providing a peaceful and relaxing environment.

Borgo dei Cacciatori

Imagine the large sweeping terrace on a warm evening. Long white tables are laden with sumptuous island cuisine and sparkling white wine. The Tyrrhenian ocean spreads out before you in a vast expanse reaching to the horizon. Surrounded by good friends, you watch the golden sun set as brilliant colors streak across the sky. Soft breezes caress warm faces and inspire a sense of well-being. Borgo dei Cacciatori is such a place.

View of Santo Stefano from the terrace of Borgo dei Cacciatori

Agave and Aloe grow in abundance on the island.

Barely touched by international tourism, Ventotene enjoys a natural existence. The subject of ancient Greek myth, Homer intended this to be the place where Ulysses confronted the sirens during his long journey home. Ventotene makes it easy to believe that they still exist today.

** More about Ventotene from a local website