Puglia’s Winery Castello Monaci ~ Drawn by the Sun

Have you ever been to a winery that is somewhere between heaven and bliss? I’m not sure that spot exists, but I would say this describes the popular Castello Monaci winery in Puglia. The sun-drenched vineyards lie between the Ionian and Adriatic seas in Puglia’s Salento region. Nestled in the “heel of the boot” that is Italy, Castello Monaci is a point of reference winery that cultivates the unique characters of native grapes Negroamaro, Primitivo and Malvasia Nera di Lecce. The intense sunlight on the land is softened by the cooling effects of the ocean breezes, contributing to a special kind of wine, those infused with an ancient minerality.

I had the opportunity to visit the Castello Monaci recently with a small group of friends. Founded by monks in 1492, it has maintained a long winemaking tradition ever since. It is a vision from a fairytale. Embellished by statues sculpted in soft, ivory colored stone, the crenelated walls encase a courtyard garden infused with loveliness. A popular place for weddings and celebrations, the large and stately interior rooms could accommodate any event with finesse. Lina Memmo, whose family has owned the estate since the 19th century, currently owns the property along with her husband Vitantonio Seracca.

As you enter the estate, a long tree-lined road leads up to the castle and cellar. Over 350 acres of grapevines fan out broadly on either side, the fruit still small but ripening in clusters under the warmth of the sun. Each section of vineyard is cultivated, collected and vinified in small tanks. The vintner would say that these particular wines are disegnati dal sole, or ‘crafted by the sun.’

The winery is expansive. Less than 20 years ago Castello Monaci produced 20,000 bottles but today production has increased to nearly 2 million bottles due to the growth of the estate. Gruppo Italiano Vino (GIV), Italy’s largest wine company, manages the estates wine-making activities.


Claudio, our tour guide, took us through the wine production area, a refrigerated crushing system with temperature controlled steel tanks that allow limited quantities of grapes to be vinified separately.

The cellar holds over 1,000 barrels of wine.

The land is thick with tufa, volcanic rock that is present in the soil. Claudio explained that as it travels to the surface, its white color reflects the light and increases the benefits to the grapevines. In the cellar, a wall of tufa acts as an effective source of insulation to keep the temperature cool. 
After the wine tour of the cellar came the product tasting.

Photo courtesy of Castello Monaci

During the wine tasting, I learned that most of the Castello Monaci wines are named after mythical Greek characters – Medos, Kreos, Aiace, Acante, Artas, and Piluna – as a tribute to Apulia’s early Greek origins. The Primitivo, Negramaro and Malvasia nera di Lecce grapes are cultivated right in the vineyard on the estate.

Kreos, a delicate rosato of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia nera di Lecce, was one of my favorites. Its name comes from Eos, goddess of the sun whom Homer called goddess with the rosy finger. It is a perfect warm weather wine which is fermented in special steel vats with a short contact between the skins and juice. Bright pink in intensity, it brings to mind sea corals of the Mediterranean.

We had the pleasure of having a wine tasting with Marco, a very friendly and knowledgable young man

Another excellent wine is the Piluna Primitivo. Piluna means “tufa pot” in Greek and is produced by a well-known grape around the world, the Zinfandel. Some of the wine matures in French barrels for 6 months while the rest remains in steel. The color is dark crimson with a robust yet velvety feel to the mouth. It carries an essence of ripe red fruits with hints of vanilla and pepper.

Liante “Wind of the Levant” Salice Salentino is named after the “icy wind of winter and the hot wind of summer which blows strongly over Puglia.” This deep, ruby-red wine is obtained from Negroamaro and Malvasia nera di Lecce grapes. They are separately vinified because of their different times of ripening. Hints of wild cherry, chocolate and vanilla combine with a warm and balanced flavor.

Enjoying a glass of Petraluce, a delicate yet intense yellow wine

Interesting to note is the icon that represents Castello Monaci. It is a large M with a horizontal line down the middle. Let me explain the meaning of the icon with the words of Castello Monaci ~

“A name embracing several facets. A meridian, a line which divides part of the earth. A big M. Castello Monaci. A symbol, a brand, which stands for the union of the work of man and of the sun. Creating a unique whole.”

Map showing the location of Castello Monaci ~ Contrada Monaci, via Case Sparse – 73015 Salice Salentino – Lecce 

The following photos are of the Castello Monaci, ending with the lovely palm-lined courtyard.

Do you have a favorite Italian wine or winery?  I would love to hear from you so don’t hesitate to share your thoughts.

Windows Into Tuscany

Chianti in Tuscany is beautiful. But then, every region in Italy has its own splendor. Chianti’s charms lie in the rolling vineyards bedecked with castles and surrounded by quiet little villages.

Castello Verrazzano in Chianti

September’s wanderings brought me to the Castello Verrazzano just outside of Greve in Chianti. The long single-lane driveway up to the castle left the main road and wound up through rolling vineyards, past the renovated stone farmhouse where I lodged, then ending at this picturesque estate. The views of surrounding vineyards, olive groves and neighboring hilltop castles were stunningly beautiful. I imagined myself staying here for a very long time.

My room at Castello Verrazzano

An old stone farmhouse provided several rooms for lodging with a small central courtyard. Stonework was everywhere, backed by red geraniums. All around me was quiet and very still, an atmosphere that I cherish.

Each morning I would hike up to the castle from my room and enjoy a sumptuous breakfast feast nicely laid out on a long table. Hearty breads and chunks of white cheeses, fresh yogurt, sliced meats, fresh-baked pastries, ceramic pots of hot brewed coffee and tea all found their place and disappeared quickly. The views from here were even more astounding. A deck ran around the outside where I could sit and gaze at castles on hilltops surrounded by long green rows of vines. Olive orchards brought a different green to the scenery and grew in groves dotted about the countryside.

The Azienda Agicola Querceto Di Catellaina

Several of the castles and villas are not only wineries. Many contain shops selling the bounty of the land. Shelves of wine, honey, balsamic vinegar and olive oil are plentiful. Colorful labels mark the items as products of Chianti, Tuscany. Many are cooking schools and hold classes in the art of Tuscan cuisine. I explored a couple of these estates.

Just a fifteen minute drive down the road is the Farm Querceto Castellina. Set on 117 acres of vineyards, the 16th century farmhouse has remained in its original condition. Architecturally intriguing and beautifully maintained, the farm also has a shop with winery products, cooking classes and a restaurant. I was welcomed with open arms and was greatly encouraged to ‘snoop’ about.

Fattoria La Loggia, Chianti

Surrounded in a natural environment of olive trees and vineyards, the Fattoria La Loggia is another equally unique winery. Not only do they provide rooms to stay, but they are a contemporary art mecca. Thought workshops and a creativity laboratory of permanent exhibitions of sculptures by noted contemporary artists are charmingly displayed around the farm.

Modern sculpture at the beginning of Fattoria La Loggia, an agritourismo for history, art and culture enthusiasts

All of these explorations took up a good part of the day. I found myself famished, so I turned my little fiat toward town. I wasn’t disappointed.

Cantina Pizzeria, Greve in Chianti

Dinner in Greve was perfect. I decided to try this cantina for two reasons. First of all, it was very rustic Italian, and secondly it was full of locals which is usually a very good indication of a worthy stop. People here are friendly and enjoy chatting among tables. My choice was a seafood pasta accompanied by a glass of Chianti Classico that was all delicious. In fact, the next day at the Castello Verrazzano winery tour, I recommended this cantina to a small group of tourists that wanted superb authentic Tuscan food at an affordable price. The Cantina Pizzeria fit perfectly.

Writing at the Castello

I found my perch at the old castle where I wrote my memoirs. Words came tumbling out while my senses were engaged in pastoral scenery. As I took in the lush green ambience, I was reminded of an old quote from years ago…”in the stillness is the dancing.” How true, I thought to myself, how very true.

Vineyards and Castles on Horseback

Horseback Riding in Tuscany

” ‘Andiamo,’ let’s go, the sound comes out at a gallop.”  Frances Mayes

Imagine riding horses under cypress shadows that fall in wide bands across a sunlit pathway that meander over the hillsides of Tuscany. Endless blue skies blown clean of clouds frame medieval villages and vineyards. Birdsong and breezes gently caress your senses and nature is suddenly all around you. 

Have any of you, like myself, ever dreamed of riding from castle to castle on horseback? Recently, I have fallen in love with a similar idea. Riding from winery to winery on horseback. But the very best is to combine the two of them together and ride to castles and wineries on horseback! And what better place to journey through than Tuscany.

Tuscany is a primeval land full of history, legends, and ancient peoples. Pathways wind through meadows and forests that pilgrims walked many centuries ago. Olive groves, vineyards and cypress trees embellish the landscape in the most striking tones, giving a balance of beauty that soothes and refreshes the soul.

Chianti is a region in Tuscany located between Florence and Siena. Steeped in ancient history, the land has grown wealthy from wine. Today the vineyards produce an excellent quality. This was not always the case. Many of us remember the cheap Chianti  encased in a wicker bottom with a candle sticking out of it, displayed in Italian restaurants years ago. However, the wine has changed with time and today has become some of the best in the world. Classico is a term used which means that the wine is grown in the oldest zone of origin. The map below shows the area.

Map of Chianti in Tuscany

Chianti wine was first mentioned in a document from 1398. The above outlined Chianti area boundaries have been fixed since 1932 and have stayed the same.  But not all are Chianti Classico. Divided into 8 sub-zones, each one produces its own Chianti wine. As you ride through the region, you will find many farms and wineries along the road offering wine tasting.

There is no better way to experience the sights, smells, and tastes of Tuscany than on horseback. Enjoy a day under the Tuscan sun and experience the ambience close up and personal. Below I have listed a few recommended riding experiences that offer wonderful horses that anyone can ride. Click on the titles to open the websites. I have provided a brief description after each title.

Horseback Riding in Chianti

After riding for two hours through the Chianti hillsides, you will return to the stables and enjoy a robust Tuscan lunch of salamis, cheeses, meats, fresh vegetables and wines from the same vineyards you just rode through.

Horses and Vineyards 

Beginning with a one hour ride through vineyards, olive groves, and medieval villages to a 17th century Villa’s estate, you will be taken on a guided tour of the ancient cellar. The unique process of making olive oil and wine will be discussed, followed by tasting the olive oil and several wines. A Tuscan lunch, consisting of bruschetta and pasta, or dinner for the pm ride, will be served afterward.

Seven Castles of Chianti on Horseback

For those who are up for a week-long excursion, this is the one. This rides takes you on a wide loop through the Chianti Classico wine region north of Siena.

Heads up, heels down and enjoy the ride!

Tuscanys Antinori Sisters Take On Historical Family Winery

Albiera, Alessia, and Allegra Antinori at the helm of the family Wine Estate

Italian winemaker Piero Antinori never expected his three daughters to pick up the reins and run the family wine business. Without sons of his own, he had no idea what would happen to his 627 year old Antinori Wine Estate. But the ladies have taken on the challenge by storm and are fully grasping the abilities and techniques needed to operate the business in top-notch fashion. Each of them has brought their marketing and public relations skills to keep the winery well diversified within Italy as well as their other estates in California and Washington in the United States, Hungary, Romania, Chile, and Malta. While their primary customer base is still Europe and North America, the Antinori’s have successfully opened markets for their wines in India, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Qatar, and Oman.

Antinori Sisters with father Marquis–“It is really our intention to remain a family business because we think that this is the best solution for us,” says Piero Antinori.

Not a small empire to juggle, they have developed the same attitude and expertise as their father. Savy with bankers who entice him with options, the Marquis is polite but generally disagrees. “You should hear the tantalizing proposals they give me,” he says. “It’s always,’The market will never be like this again.’ ‘You’ll never get a better price.’ Now, the latest rage is private equity. Honestly, I’ve never been tempted.” Also, like past generations, he has resisted the idea of expecting his children to take on permanent operation of the winery. Perhaps this is the magic ingredient that has kept the family involved.

A steady hand and hesitancy to hire management from without has paid off well.  Preferring to nurture someone from within and to instill the same values and vision have helped to build a company that makes some of the most highly appraised wine in Italy. The result of all this is that the Antinori’s have done quite well, with an annual growth rate of around 7% over the past decade. They have more than doubled the margin of most other major wine producers in Italy.

Antinori Wine Cellar

The Antinori sisters have much to be proud of as the 26th generation to run the business. Not only has the family succeeded in passing the winery on from one generation to the next, but since the medieval ages the Antinori family have survived the Bubonic plague, the invasion of Napoleon, two world wars, the arrival of globalization and the birth and death of the wine cooler.

The Marquis Piero lives with his wife and youngest daughter, Alessia, in the upper two flats of the 15th century Palazzo Antinori, by the Florence cathedral, where the family has lived generation after generation for the past five centuries. The walls are covered with paintings by Renaissance masters, such as Tintoretto. The first two floors are the family business, run by the sisters who operate as the top executives.

Cantina at Antinori Winery

Judging by the looks of their state-of-the-art wineries, which include three estates within Italy alone plus a new visitors center and museum in Chianti, the Antinori sisters have been hard at work adding the finesse and elegance that earns its reputation. Each brings their own knowledge with educational degrees and hands-on experience in the field. But demanding competition in the wine business will continue in a rapidly changing marketplace. New areas, from China to Russia, are looking for high-quality wine. With production soaring from regions such as Australia, New Zealand and Chile, new market shares are gained. Making wine available to the younger generation have inspired the Antinori’s to open their own restaurants in Zürich, Vienna and Moscow.

So how does being female bring a different angle to the business? “Women choose the wines more often than men, and they are often more intuitive about food pairings and far more experimental. Having a woman involved in every aspect from winemaking to marketing has made a major difference in the company’s growth,” states Allegra. “Wine is emotional, not rational. It has a lot of personality, and people who are not wine experts are starting to understand subtle differences. Women especially embody that.”

“The elegance,” Allesia Antinori states, “The wine has to be elegant. And so you say, ‘how do you describe elegance?’ You can’t. It’s like an elegant woman. How do you describe her? It’s personal.”

Antinori Vineyard

If strength runs in families, than the sisters should have plenty of reserves. Beginning in 1513, Camillo Antinori was exiled from Florence after feuding with the Medici’s. Then again, in 1572, the Holy See granted Filippo Antinori concession to sell wine to the Church for religious celebrations. But in Rome, the wine merchants maintained a tight grip on the trade and relentlessly fought him until he went bankrupt. More recently, the Marquis, who began running the estate in 1966, suffered a split between his brother which almost resulted into a tailspin of family destruction.

Is it easy for three sisters to run an empire? It’s not that the girls are without their spats. “It’s easy to fall into the,’I work more, she’s working less.’ That’s normal,” says Albiera Antinori, continuing with “there is no biz-school-inspired strategy for this. We just all grew up with the same values. And somehow, we all know when it’s time to make a decision together.”

Italy’s Women of the Vine

In Italy, more than a third of those working in wine are women. A new wave of feminine vintners is taking the boot by storm. From all regions across Italy’s domain, women are making their mark in the previously male dominated world of winemaking. These women are bringing a fresh new way of looking at wine, their land and the produce it brings by growing and developing organic, natural grapes with no chemicals.

Let’s hear it for our Italian ladies of the vine. (all photos credit of google)

The Antinori sisters from Florence are spearheading their 627 year old winery, being the first women in 26 generations of the Antinori lineage to have any significant role in the family’s winery. All three sisters are involved in public relations in addition to running their winery with their father, Piero Antinori.

Albiera, Alessia, and Allegra Antinori

The Antinori legend began in 1385, when Giovanni di Piero Antinori first entered the Winemakers Guild of Florence. Today, the wine industry has become an ultracompetitive global business, where they distribute their wine across the world.

A cutting edge cantina deep in the heart of Chianti is the Antinori’s newest project. This polished underground cellar made of terra-cotta and local stones, is hidden under olive groves and rows of grapevines.

Albiera sums up nicely her family’s winemaking priority. “The liquid in the bottle has to embody the soul of the people who make it. Nothing is more important than that.”

Elisabetta Foradori, from the Trentino-Alto Adige

Elisabetta, a single parent of four, makes wine from the Teroldego grape. Her winery is beautifully nestled in the Trentino Valley, shadowed by the Dolomite Mountains of northern Italy. Her top Teroldego is called Granato, a stunning red said to be polished and refined. Elisabetta uses old terracotta pots to ferment her wine and has a fascinating way of wrapping her grapevines.

Nicoletta Bocca, from San Fereolo in the Piedmont region

Nicoletta’s wines come from sustainable organic and biodynamic agriculture. Originally from Milan, she bought vineyards in the Turin area from elderly neighbors who could no longer take care of them, and from whom she learned much of her winemaking techniques and skills.

Dora Forsoni, from Tuscany

Poderi Sanguineto I & II, Dora’s winery, makes Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montepulciano. Her brothers had no interest in working in the wine business, so Dora took it on and loves it. A natural comedian, she enjoys telling the story of how she had a run in with a wild boar and has many scenes butchering things….one tough lady!

Arianna Occhipinti, from Ragusa Sicily

A non conformist in many ways, Arianna grows the Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes. Her wines are considered earthy, mysterious and intriguing much like her. Her vines are uniquely trellised, growing up and around in a circular motion. She is known to produce an excellent olive oil as well.

These women of the vine are bringing a unique freshness to the winemaking world. Confident, independent, and wise, they continue to show originality and capability in producing top-notch world-class wine. They are intensely in love with their land and lovingly, passionately grow and cultivate their grapes into the magnificent wines for which they are known.

As Allegra Antinori puts it, “women choose the wines more often than men, and they are often more intuitive about food pairings and far more experimental. Having a woman involved in every aspect from winemaking to marketing has made a major difference in the company’s growth. Wine is emotional, not rational. It has a lot of personality, and people who are not wine experts are starting to understand subtle differences. Women especially embody that.”

Do you happen to know of a woman vintner who is making incredible wine? I’d love to hear about it. Please share in a comment below.