Portofino, Italian Riviera Posh

Portifino….the prettiest and priciest village on the Italian Riviera. Small in size, it draws huge crowds, among them some of the rich and wealthy.  Visitors stroll the waterfront, watching the huge yachts come and go, hoping to catch of glimpse of a celebrity. The small village charm and ritzy class is the substance of dreams for most….if only for a day!

I spent one day here while exploring the beautiful Italian Riviera just a few weeks ago. The narrow two-lane road leading into Portofino offered no place to park. Motorcycles were lined up against the tall rock walls in single file, barely clearing the flow of traffic. I pulled into the only parking garage I saw. It worked and I found a space. But I knew I was in posh-land when I saw that my parking would cost me 5.50 euros per hour.

Giorgio Armani, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna own holiday homes in Portofino and are occasionally spotted around town. Steven Spielberg and Kylie Minogue are also known to hobnob around the area. In fact, not long ago Monica Belushi shot a commercial in Portofino for Dolce and Gabanna, introducing their limited-addition Light Blue fragrance, Dreaming in Portofino. There is no doubt that Portofino is a popular destination in Italy for the jet set and the affluent, the film stars and fashion moguls.

From the harbor, there is a steep set of stairs that lead up to Brown Castle. This photo was taken partway up to the top, giving a different view of the harbor and a tall sailboat in the background. Sadly, the Castle will have to wait for next time to be explored as time was running short.

Yachts over one hundred feet long lounge on the bay waters that sparkle like diamonds when the sun catches it just right. Polished to perfection, they appeared to be the ultimate in glamour. As I stood on the boardwalk gazing over a couple of them, I wondered who they belonged to. It takes a staff of able-bodied crew to manage and care for these yachts on a daily basis.

Smaller boats weave and bob about the harbor like a broken string of pearls, scattered in different directions. Most of them are fishing boats, but some are rubber dingys that motor about the waters. A few sailboats stood off in the distance, tall and stately.

Mr. Rhino suspended from straps

This rhino was hanging on the waterfront by the boats. Not sure of the significance, but it did catch my eye. I was holding my breath as I passed under him, hoping he wouldn’t fall on me.

Diamonds!!!

More than one box-like window in front of a jewelry shop on the boardwalk had exhibits like this one. I must have stared for hours. They shimmer and shine so exquisitely. I looked for prices, of course, but saw none attached to them. No bargain prices here….

This waterfront restaurant had one of these delicately painted ceramic eggs on each table as a decoration piece. Many shops on the Riviera have hand-painted plates and bowls like these, but this was the first time I saw one shaped like an egg.

Hillside Heaven- Villas set like jewels around Portofino

Gorgeous day on the Portofino waterfront. The crowds had thinned out so it was a perfect time to take a picture. I loved the tall pastel houses hugging the base of the hill by the water and those clinging toward the top.

This ‘Hound of the Baskervilles’ stood high above everyone, barking his heart out. We all just kept smiling up at him and taking pictures. No one took him seriously, poor guy. But I was glad to see him behind a fence. Not the kind of fella you want to run into in a dark alley….

This is a towering villa that caught my eye. The driveway leading up to it is lined with a few interesting statues. I would love to have walked it, but would have felt like an intruder. The view from this villa must be stunning.

My time was short in Portofino, but the small quaint village presence left me feeling enriched. My senses had feasted on beauty and luxury, and though I can’t be there I can take and cherish the memories and visual eloquence with me for a lifetime.

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Monica Belucci arrives in Portofino

Lake Como: Mingle with the Caesars and the Stars

Bellagio overlooking Lake Como

“I love the way life is spent in Italy….It’s really nice to sit down and have a two-hour lunch, which the Italians do. I realized that I had spent 15, 20 years standing up and shoveling food down my throat. It’s not about wealth; it’s about taking time and actually enjoying things.” Anonymous

Tranquil, peaceful, serene, romantic.…these words describe one of the most beautiful places on earth; Lake Como in Lombardy, northern Italy. Tall stately cypress provides pomp to the transcendent villas that populate the shoreline and hillside. Boats seem to glide across glass suspended above fathoms of deep blue water, turning a shimmery silver as the sun sets. Lake Como, steeped in history from ancient times, has become a paradise today for the rich and famous.

Villa del Balbianello

My love affair with Lake Como began the day I stepped foot off a boat and onto Como soil. A world of palatial elegance enveloped me immediately, and I imagined that I was one of the wealthy Villa dwellers, if only for a day.

Lake Como has been on the map for centuries. Julius Caesar, in the first century BC, sent 5,000 Romans to settle in Como to develop and protect the trade route between Rome and Reastia (Switzerland). In the first century Pliny the Elder and Younger both took up residence at Lake Como. Pliny the Elder is famous for his writings on natural history. He observed the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD, only to get too close to the event and die in the aftermath. Pliny the Younger, his adopted nephew, wrote about the eruption of the volcano.

Dramatic hillsides and deep ravines rise and swell with the shoreline of Lake Como. Many Romanesque churches dot the landscape, bringing to mind earlier times and rulership. Two of the most powerful and wealthy Milanese families, the Sforza and Visconti, ruled Lake Como during the medieval era.

Billa del Balbianello on Lake Como

Lake Como today thrives as a modern retreat with a good supply of converted castles and lovely villa’s offering luxurious accommodations. Don’t be surprised if you happen to bump into familiar celebrity faces. The lake is scattered with their elegant lakeside villas.

Villa Oleandra -George Clooney’s Estate on Lake Como

Carolyn of Brunswick, the estranged wife of the Prince of Wales, came to Lake Como in 1816 and claimed the huge mansion Villa d’Este as her home. Since then, the lake has seen many of the rich and wealthy come to settle. George Clooney owns two homes; Villa Margherita and Villa Oleandra, which he keeps up beautifully. Sting and Richard Branson, as well as the Versace family (Villa Le Fontanelle) keep villas on the lake as well.

“Lake Como (Lago di Como), lined with elegant 19th Century villas, crowned by snow-capped mountains, and busy with ferries, hydrofoils, and slow, passenger-only boats–is a good place to take a break from the intensity and obligatory-turnstile culture of central Italy. It seems like half the travelers you’ll meet have tossed their itineraries into the lake and are actually relaxing.” Rick Steves, “Italy 2013”

I did toss my itinerary into the lake and found myself melting into the land, the cypress, the deep blue waters that shimmer like a silver web at eventide, the winding pathways that spring under my footstep as I pondered those who walked before me. As I sat by the water’s edge, the rythmic lapping lulled me to sleep, cradled in the arms of the timeless mountains.

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Splashes of Amalfi.

This pathway above the Mediterranean on the Amalfi coast indulged me with the most unforgettable exotic scenery imaginable. I’ve heard it said that the Amalfi coastline is one of the most beautiful in the world. Well, I haven’t seen them all, but I can’t imagine anything more intoxicating than this.

With just two days to spend in Amalfi, I was well on my way to a much-needed rest. I found a cushy chair in the mid-morning sunshine with an ocean view and settled back, inhaling the coffee and croissant smells from the nearby bistro bar. Birds chirped everywhere in their sing-song melody, the ocean breeze carrying it like tinkling chimes. Warm sunshine soothed away my Naples tension.  I was ready for a tranquil retreat.

Ferry Harbor

A busy harbor of ferry boats brought people daily to different locations along the coastline. When I first stepped off the boat into the warm Mediterranean sunshine, it felt wonderful.  Judging by the looks of delight on other faces, I don’t think I enjoyed it alone.

What a View….imagine climbing up to your villa!

No, I did not climb up through these villas. It was enough to gaze upon them from a cafe while sipping a cappuccino. I spent a few hours just pondering which villa I would choose to live in. It was a tough choice!

Sunwashed by day, lightposts twinkle at night, joining with the starry lights from the tumbling hillside Villas

Where would you like to go?

If I could, I would visit every one of these places. Later in the day, as I walked up away from the water, I found winding alleyways full of tiny shops selling anything from homemade jewelry, artwork, paintings, leather work, and ceramics with yellow lemon themes. Small dining restaurants with terraces offering spacious views spotted the shopping districts. Elegant green shade trees canopied some of the walkways, offering a cool respite from the afternoon heat.

Walkway leading up to the shops and restaurants–I was looking back toward the ocean when I took this shot

Bright orange umbrellas shade lounging sunbathers

Although not a sunbather by nature, I did soak up some morning sun. Afterward, I found a shady spot and watched the little white boats bob around the harbor.

Looking northward towards Naples–My ferry would take me back around that rocky bend tomorrow.

I discovered that the tower on the right was one of several built by the townsfolk centuries ago as lookouts for pirates who once roamed the coastline.

Dockside with lovely Villas above

My walk along a pathway back toward town and my hotel

Looking up at my hotel–My room is the top left with a balcony

Twilight from my balcony

Amalfi growing sleepy-looking down below my balcony….The perfect ending to a lovely day

Good Night, Amalfi…..Buona Notte

Five Jewels of the Amalfi Coast

Welcome to the Amalfi Coast, considered one of the worlds most exotic and breathtaking coastlines. The sight of whitewashed villas tumbling down the vertical hillside to the ocean’s edge is enough to delight any tourist. Yet there are gems to be explored and worthy of a visit that you won’t want to miss.

Sun Worshipping on the Amafi Beach

There are many sandy beaches offering ocean frolics, umbrella’s, and tasty refreshments. No matter which way you look, you are surrounded by Italy’s coastal treasures.

St. Andrews Cathedral, Amalfi

Rising majestically off the Piazza del Duomo, St. Andrews Cathedral was built in the 1200’s on the site of an older cathedral, which was built on the remains of a previous temple. A flight of steep stairs takes you up to the Arab- inspired facade. An older basilica with the famed Cloister of Paradise resides next to it. St. Andrews’ remains, which were brought over from Constantinople during the 4th crusade, are kept inside the crypt of the Cathedral. A 13th century wooden crucifix, medieval frescoes by Andrea del’Asta and Egyptian granite columns add to provide an engaging atmosphere.

Grotta dello Smeraldo in neighboring Ravello

Flooded with translucent blue and emerald light, the Grotta della Smeraldo can be reached by boat. Discovered by a local fisherman in 1932, this grotto had remained virtually untouched for many years. The cavern roof is 24 meters above water level, hosting dramatic rock formations.

Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone, Ravello

Originating in the 11th century, the Terrace of Infinity, also known as the belvedere of the Villa Cimbrone has predominately remained in custody of families of nobility. As the historian Ferdinand Gregorovius stated after a visit to the Villa,….“incomparable…..where the most beautiful flowers you can imagine flourished, coming from numerous plants of the South….redesigned and enriched with countless….ornamental features, small temples, pavilions, bronze and stone statues.” Truly not to be missed.

There are actually 30 towers like this one down the coast, originating from as early as the 12th century. Saracens were known to pirate the waters often, so when they were sighted, fires were built on top as a signal to the inhabitants of pirate activity. At this warning, they would all leave the beach and literally ‘head for the hills.’

Amalfi is an excursion into the senses, filling your mind with exotic images and dramatic landscapes. My thoughts are never far from it, and still the scent of lemons on the ocean air brings me close to heaven.

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