Illustrious Portovenere, From Pirates to Rainstorms

Restorante Elettra in Portovenere– famous for its anchovies w/lemon, stir-fry w/squid, shrimp and fish, and nettle noodles w/seafood.

Lovely Portovenere captivates, even on a rainy day. Picturesquely situated on the Riviera of Liguria, this cobbled and quaint little village offers a dose of old Italy in colorful hues.

On an early morning exploration of the Italian Riviera just this last September, I left Chiavari and headed south along the coast. Portovenere was on my radar, and I wasn’t about to let grey billowy rain clouds change my plans. When I did arrive, I was greeted by a thunderous torrent. So much for hospitality!

Portovenere’s sheltered fishing harbor

Stunning yacht and streamlined sailboats. This quay cafe provided a refuge from the downpour and a cup of steaming cappuccino!

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Fortunately the downpour eased up into a light sprinkle before long. But meanwhile I found refuge under this waterfront cafe.

Established since the first century BC, Portovenere was originally named “Portus Veneris,” translated ‘Port of Venus’. A temple of the goddess Venus is thought to have stood on the rugged cliff overlooking the sea where San Pietro church stands today (more of this in my next post), just above the village. In Roman times, Portovenere was a fishing community much like today, except now the harbor is dotted with trendy sailboats and yachts.

Piazza outside the entrance to the old village–so inviting!

Greeted by tall pastel-colored houses, a medieval tower and castle crenelations, I passed a refreshment stand at the opening of the old town and proceeded through the archway (mid-picture).

Umbrella refreshment stand, ready to take on the weather. I loved the rock-work behind it.

Entry onto Via Capellini, the old medieval main street lined with shops. Look above the arch and you will notice the prior arch which was higher up.

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The archway into the village and the surrounding walls were built in the mid 12th century. It has been resized a time or two, making it smaller. Above the arch is an old Latin inscription. An effigy of the “white Madonna,” patron saint of the village, was on the wall. Her feast day is celebrated in August, with hundreds of oil lamps lit at night that float on the water beside a torchlight procession. Wouldn’t that be a beautiful sight?

Shopping district on the medieval main street

Narrow gray brick streets centuries old dipped and swayed a bit in places. Tiny shops framed the street in tightly, some of their wares spilling out the doors. They were so colorful and intriguing, I must have peaked my head into all of them. Handmade gifts, olive oil, prosciutto, cheese, clothing, shoes, cafe’s, pizzeria’s, gelato, galleries, local Ligurian ceramics and handiwork….all creatively adorned.

Genio- Charming little Bar and Hotel

Waterfront shops and restaurants

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The Calata Doria, or the quay, is lined with tall narrow houses six to eight stories high. Built in the middle ages, these buildings served as defensive towers against invading pirates. This position directly above the harbor gave them the advantage of escaping out the back doors and up the hill to the old Genovese castle fortress.

Below are stairs I descended to the waterfront. Long, dark and spooky, I can envision marauding pirates rushing up the stairs with knives in their teeth!

Stairs leading from the village main street down to the quay.  

Photo taken above the town. You can see the tower which marks the entrance onto the medieval shopping street

At the end of the street through the village, vaulted walkways and stairs lead up to the most exotic part of town. The old church of San Pietro sits perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. Ruins of the well-preserved Genovese castle rise majestically above it. The famous Cove of Poets lies below, the subject of a surprising story.

I’m excited to share the illustrious history and unstated charm of these cliffhanger dwellings in my next post. Coming very soon…..Stay tuned…..

Delight of the Village…San Pietro and part of a castle fortress

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From Pirate’s Cove to Diver’s Shrine, the Italian Riviera Abounds

San Fruttuoso Abbey Gardens

“Paradise exists and you don’t have to die to experience it.”    Anonymous

Imagine a tiny pristine cove with clear blue waters surrounded by exotic treasures only reachable by foot or boat. A small pebbly swimming beach stretches out between an old medieval abbey and the shimmering Mediterranean sea, with a quaint restaurant to the side serving cool drinks and delicious meals. Heavenly?

San Fruttuoso, near Portofino in Liguria, is where you will find this enchanting cove. Surrounded by the National Park of Portofino, hiking trails that hug the coastline and offer breathtaking views wind between Camogli and San Fruttuoso. Reachable only by foot or boat, it is well worth the effort. But if you travel by foot, allow yourself an hour and a half minimum. It’s a fantastic hiking opportunity with a lot of surrounding coastal beauty.

One of San Fruttuoso’s treasures, the ancient Benedictine Abbey, looms at the back of the beach and straddles the sand. A great slope covered with Mediterranean pine and holm oak rise behind it, along with old olive terraces that are being gently restored by an agriturismo program. There is also a sixteenth century watch tower just a short walk away.

The stone abbey with elegant dome is both medieval and romanesque in design. Built in the 10th century, the building has also been used as a pirates den, a humble fishermen’s home, and the residence of the prestigious Doria family of Genoa. The facade of the abbey was added in the 13th century. Originally boats moored directly underneath the arches of the abbey to unload cargo into the cellars, but more recently naturally occurring sand has built up the beach. However, you can still walk underneath the abbey and see a few boats resting on dry land.

During the summer months of July and August, impressive concerts are held in the cloister of the abbey.

Christ of the Abyss

Another treasure of San Fruttuoso, and a diver’s delight, is the bronze statue that sits on the ocean floor. Standing eight and a half feet high, Christ of the Abyss looks upward with outstretched arms. Submerged under 50 feet of water, it has become one of the most famous and popular diving sites in the world. Christ of the Abyss was placed in the waters on August 22, 1954 following the 1947 death of Dario Gonzatti, one of the first divers to use SCUBA equipment in his dives. Today the bronze statue is a shrine of protection for all those in the sea.

Interestingly, to make the statue, bronze was crafted from the melted down metal of ships, bells, and the medals of mariners, Olympic athletes, firefighters, and even soldiers who died in combat (donated by their mothers).

Every year in July, a celebration occurs in honor of Christ of the Abyss. A late evening mass is held on the beach, followed by a procession which leads down to the water. Here an underwater procession begins toward the statue. Once reached, a laurel wreath is placed around the feet.

Boats with glass bottoms run from the beach out to the statue if you don’t want to scuba dive. Another option is an exact replica of the statue viewable in the abbey. For those who want to scuba dive, there are options for excursions along the coastline. The dive around Christ of the Abyss  is in predominately shallow water and fairly easy. Red coral, octopus, grouper and moray eels abound so you won’t be alone!

Monastery at San Fruttuoso

There are no roads to San Fruttuoso, but there are well-advertised boat trips which leave several times a day from Camogli, Portofino and Santa Margherita. My suggestion is to enjoy the day by hiking the picturesque coastal path into San Fruttuoso, spend a few unique hours, and take a boat on back. A very enriching experience awaits you!

Below are links to provide you with more information on hiking trails and diving.

*Christ of the Abyss Diving Information

*Hiking Coastal Pathway from Camogli to San Fruttuoso Information/Maps

Splashes of Amalfi.

This pathway above the Mediterranean on the Amalfi coast indulged me with the most unforgettable exotic scenery imaginable. I’ve heard it said that the Amalfi coastline is one of the most beautiful in the world. Well, I haven’t seen them all, but I can’t imagine anything more intoxicating than this.

With just two days to spend in Amalfi, I was well on my way to a much-needed rest. I found a cushy chair in the mid-morning sunshine with an ocean view and settled back, inhaling the coffee and croissant smells from the nearby bistro bar. Birds chirped everywhere in their sing-song melody, the ocean breeze carrying it like tinkling chimes. Warm sunshine soothed away my Naples tension.  I was ready for a tranquil retreat.

Ferry Harbor

A busy harbor of ferry boats brought people daily to different locations along the coastline. When I first stepped off the boat into the warm Mediterranean sunshine, it felt wonderful.  Judging by the looks of delight on other faces, I don’t think I enjoyed it alone.

What a View….imagine climbing up to your villa!

No, I did not climb up through these villas. It was enough to gaze upon them from a cafe while sipping a cappuccino. I spent a few hours just pondering which villa I would choose to live in. It was a tough choice!

Sunwashed by day, lightposts twinkle at night, joining with the starry lights from the tumbling hillside Villas

Where would you like to go?

If I could, I would visit every one of these places. Later in the day, as I walked up away from the water, I found winding alleyways full of tiny shops selling anything from homemade jewelry, artwork, paintings, leather work, and ceramics with yellow lemon themes. Small dining restaurants with terraces offering spacious views spotted the shopping districts. Elegant green shade trees canopied some of the walkways, offering a cool respite from the afternoon heat.

Walkway leading up to the shops and restaurants–I was looking back toward the ocean when I took this shot

Bright orange umbrellas shade lounging sunbathers

Although not a sunbather by nature, I did soak up some morning sun. Afterward, I found a shady spot and watched the little white boats bob around the harbor.

Looking northward towards Naples–My ferry would take me back around that rocky bend tomorrow.

I discovered that the tower on the right was one of several built by the townsfolk centuries ago as lookouts for pirates who once roamed the coastline.

Dockside with lovely Villas above

My walk along a pathway back toward town and my hotel

Looking up at my hotel–My room is the top left with a balcony

Twilight from my balcony

Amalfi growing sleepy-looking down below my balcony….The perfect ending to a lovely day

Good Night, Amalfi…..Buona Notte

Exotic Castle Dining Above The Mediterranean

Oh, for the Glory of Fresh Caught Seafood on top of a Castle overlooking the Sparkling Mediterranean.

Cinque Terre, five small fishing villages backed against the vine covered Ligurian hills on the Mediterranean, is famous for its hiking trails and quaint harbors. On vacation last September, my husband Carl and I discovered this coastline of fishing villages and exuberantly explored the abundance they have to offer.  These villages were once only accessible by sea, and still no road connects them. Now they can be reached by train from La Spezia, which runs daily.

Our cuisine delight was at the Ristorante al Castello perched high above the village of Vernazza.

But first, a little history…

High atop the village of Vernazza sits the remains of an ancient castle tower. Like a beacon, this tower has stood guard over the little fishing village as early as the 12th century, when pirates plied the waters.  The inhabitants tended their vineyards up in the hills, surrounded by fortified walls and hillside terracing, depending on their watchtower to keep them informed of pirate activity.

Vernazza from above. You can see the tower of the Castello Restaurant on the far left

During World War II, the tower became a lookout for the Nazis. The British bombed them out, so the tower needed to be rebuilt. Today the remains have been converted into hilltop dining with sweeping views of the Mediterranean.

Ristorante al Castello, a climb up the stone steps above the harbor of Vernazza 

Climbing up a steep and winding pathway from the harbor, we set out to dine at the Castello. After we arrived, we were seated at a table with spacious views of the water. Soft ocean breezes swept through the restaurant, carrying with it hints of citrus which mingled well with the salty smell of the sea. Delicious Ligurian cuisine was listed on the menu, consisting of seafood with pasta dishes, herbed  baked fish, lasagna with pesto, and my favorite- a seafood medley.  I ordered it without hesitation.

Freshly caught Mediterranean seafood

Freshly caught fish, shrimps, scallops, calamari and mussels covered my plate with the bounty of the sea. The white fish proved flavorful and flaky, the shrimps crisp, and the scallops large, buttery and tender. It was a delectable feast.

Evening view from the Castello

Lingering over glasses of the local white wine, we observed other couples dining at outdoor tables on the terrace below that hugged the cliff walls overlooking the sea. Candles illuminated faces and wine sparkled and danced in goblets as the last remaining rays of the sun stretched out its arms over the twilight sky. Voices grew hushed and intimate. The warmth from the day gave way to cooling puffs of wind off the water.

Address: Via Guidoni 56, Vernazza, Italy

Have you ever dreamed of dining in a castle? Maybe you have…if so, where did you dine? I love to hear from you so please feel free to leave a comment below.

Twilight Begins over the Mediterranean