Swim with Lord Byron in the Bay of Poets

San Lorenzo Church near the Bay of Poets

“I’m glad I am a woman who once danced naked in the Mediterranean Sea at midnight.”                                                     -Mercedes McCambridge

Did you know that English poet Lord Byron swam across the bay of Portovenere to visit his fellow English muse, Shelley, who was residing in the village of San Terenzo? Hence comes the name of the cove, The Bay of Poets. Byron’s Grotto, called Grotta Arpaia, now collapsed, bears a plaque honoring Byron’s courage and strength in tackling the often tempestuous waters. Byron’s Grotto is located at the end of a promontory in Portovenere, below the 13th century Church of San Pietro. Ironically, it was in the bay that Shelley died when his boat overturned in a storm.

Lord Byron – Original artist unknown, photo from en.wikipedia

 

Dante and Petrarch were dazzled by the natural beauty of the gulf as well. The Bay of Poets and Byron’s Grotto highlight the shimmering Mediterranean beauty stretched out to the horizon from Portovenere, located just below Cinque Terre and on the promontory tip from La Spezia. A longtime playground for celebrities and the notably wealthy, Portovenere has no lack of boating excursions, unique archaeological sites, neighborhoods of pastel-hued houses that tower above narrow winding streets, and swimming in Lord Byron’s Bay. The best beaches are at San Terenzo, now famous with beachside bathers and swimmers.

From the old district of town, you can walk the length of the road and onto a path which meanders down to the Church of San Pietro. From there a foot-path takes you down to the rocky edge of the bay. Swimming is a popular sport in the Bay of Poets, but the rocks underneath water can be sharp so some caution is advised.

The Byron Cup swimming challenge has traditionally been held in August, commemorating Lord Byron’s legendary swim across the Bay of Poets in 1822. A large number of swimmers register to swim the 7.5 km between Portovenere and Lerici.

Byron had many water escapades during his lifetime. A sportsman at heart, he was born with a club foot, which only inspired him to be more proficient in the water. He was the first person to swim across the Hellespont in 1810, known as the Dardanelles, the stretch of water that separates Europe from Asia. Later, after a night of revelry in the Lido, he swam across the Venice lagoon and down the entire length of the Grand Canal in three and three-quarters hours. Daring, dashing and bold, he proved himself unhindered by his physical lameness.

Grotto Arpaia or Lord Byron’s Grotto

The Church of San Pietro stands majestically on the cliff overlooking the sea just above Byron’s Grotto. Fashioned in Gothic style with external markings of black and white stripes, it was built over a 5th century Palaeo-Christian church. The Church of San Pietro offers stunning views of the Cinque Terre coastline and has become a desirable place for weddings.

When next you arrive in Portovenere, saunter on down to Byron’s Bay and poke a foot in the water for the old poet. Chances are you will be compelled to slide on into the comforting warmth of the blue-green Mediterranean Sea.

For more information on The Bay of Poets and Portovenere, please click on the link below.

*The Bay of Poets maps, photos and tourist information

The Gulf of Poets ~ An Artist’s Muse

The Gulf of Poets as seen from Doria Castle in Portovenere. Below is the medieval street, the carugio, lined by pastel houses with tan roofs.

 

The Golfo dei Poeti, or the Gulf of Poets, is the literary nickname for the Gulf of La Spezia that lies on the Ligurian Riviera just south of the Cinque Terre. The area has long attracted artists and writers, many of them well-known such as Percy Bysshe Shelley, Mary Shelley, Lord Byron, D.H. Lawrence, George Sands, Henry Miller and Virginia Woolf. Surrounded by a surreal landscape of dramatic cliffs and rock formations that inspires mood according to the lighting, the Gulf of Poets is truly a bewitching cove accented by crystalline waters.

Percy and Mary Shelley came to the area in 1819 and stayed in a white-washed villa named Casa Magni, which was situated on the promenade at the tiny village of San Terenzo. It proved to be a place of inspiration for the both of them. The nearby Lerici Castle was supposedly the setting for Mary Shelley’s “Frankenstein” novel, and it was here that Percy composed some of his most beautiful and famous lyrics and songs. Inscribed on the villa itself are his words, “A lovely house close by the soft and sublime scenes of the Bay of Lerici.” Another inscription reads, “I still inhabit this Divine Bay, reading dramas and sailing and listening to the most enchanting music.” They were often visited by Lord Byron, who resided across the bay in Portovenere. It is said that at least once he swam the 7.5 km across the bay to visit his good friends, the Shelley’s. This was a remarkable feat in itself as Lord Byron was known to have a club foot.

Tragically, in 1822, it was in this bay that Shelley lost his life in a drowning accident while sailing his boat, Ariel, from Livorno to San Terenzo. Although a good sailor, he and his two English companions encountered a storm that drove his boat to the bottom of the bay. Shelley’s body and those of his companions were found later washed up on shore. It is believed that his spirit still inhabits the inlets and promontories of the bay.

The villages of the Gulf of Poets include Lerici, Sarzana, Tellaro, San Terenzo, Montemarcello, Portovenere, and the city of La Spezia. There are three islands in the bay; Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. The bay remains vitally active with water sports such as windsurfing, sailing and canoeing.

If you go:

The nearest airports are Pisa and Florence.

* Portovenere can be reached by ferry from La Spezia or Lerici. There is a bus from the train station in La Spezia.
* Lerici can be reached by ferry from La Spezia, Portovenere, and The Cinque Terre. Ferries run from the 1st of April. There’s a scenic drive from La Spezia, and there’s a large car park between San Terenzo and Lerici. A shuttle bus runs between the two, but it is a short walk to either village.
* The best time to visit is Spring or Autumn as the Gulf of Poets can get very crowded in high season.

For details on accommodation, restaurants and other travel information:
♦ www.portovenere.it
♦ www.rivieradellaliguria.com

 

Portovenere’s Cliffside Treasures

San Pietro’s church withstands the ravages of time.

My road trip along the Ligurian coastline  brought me to Portovenere, where I explored its remarkable landmarks overlooking the sea. Panoramic vistas bordered by turquoise waters gave an exotic backdrop to this cliff-side paradise. Portovenere was a place where I longed to linger.

An old archway into the village began my walk through the medieval streets lined with several shops and cafes (see my post Illustrious Portovenere, from Pirates to Rainstorms). After passing through, I came upon the piazza L. Spallanzani. From there I could see the church of San Pietro, the remains of a castle fortress, and the surrounding Bay of La Spezia. I followed the winding pathway up to the top of a cliff that overlooked the Mediterranean Sea, spread out majestically to the far distant horizon.

High up on a rocky spur stands the small but exquisite church of San Pietro. Built upon the ruins of a temple to the goddess Venus, San Pietro became a Christian church in the sixth century. Modified by the Genoese in the thirteenth century, the Romanesque church grew into Gothic dimensions.

Interior of San Pietro church.

As I stepped inside the old church through a single doorway, I was taken by its small but ornate interior. It consists of three naves, the largest in the center with a white marble altar. The gray and white Gothic stripes can be seen on the inside as well as out. It reminded me of the duomo in Siena. This striping effect was a popular Gothic addition to churches at the time.

San Pietro is a popular place for weddings. Any wonder? Piazza L. Spallanzani in the forefront

Historically, San Pietro survived a major fire from the Aragone bombardment in 1494, was ordered to be the battery for Gulf defense by Napoleon, sacked several times, and was occupied by Austrian-Russian troops. Yet there it remains, steadfast and unshakable. I felt captivated by its beauty.

Elegant Arches overlooking the Ocean

This long row of arches is located right next to the church, adding a touch of elegance to the unique setting.

Rugged coastline just below 

Eugenio Montale, in his poem Portovenere, gives thought to its beginnings… “there comes Triton, from the waves that lap the threshold of a Christian temple, and every near hour is ancient…here, you are at the origins.” I kept looking for mermaids playing in the water, or Neptune with his trident! But, unfortunately, they must have been hiding on this cloudy day.

Lord Byron’s Cave in the rock wall at ocean level, where he spent time contemplating. Doria Castle rests above

Have you ever heard of the Bay of Poets? I had, many years ago, and thought it sounded so romantic. I was sure I would visit it one day. Well, here I am. It is just as beautiful as I envisioned.

Lord Byron and his good friend Shelley are responsible for the name. The Bay of Poets is actually the Gulf of La Spezia. Lord Byron lived in Portovenere for a time (see my previous post, “Swim with Lord Byron in the Bay of Poets” for more details). There is a plaque on the church that commemorates Lord Byron’s courage and strength.

Doria Castle, a nice hike up from the church of San Pietro

The Doria Castle fortress above the town was built by the Genoese in 1161 and has been the area’s defense for centuries. The extremely wealthy Doria family were very involved in the political, military and economic life of the Genoese from the twelfth to the sixteenth centuries.

The massive walls come outward toward the base, making the castle appear much larger than it actually is. Today the castle is available for special events, offering an amphitheater and a terrace overlooking the sea.

Castle Interior-Hypostyle Hall built in 1458 with vaulted ceilings supported by 8 pillars

 Arched Stairs leading up to the Castle

Panoramic View from on top of the Castle  

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Below the castle on a cliff is the town cemetery. I passed by the beautiful graves so well-groomed and scattered with flowers.

Town of Portovenere below taken from Doria Castle

Portovenere is a sensational experience. Lord Byron’s words from a poem of his brings visions of this lovely village to my mind. “Be thou the rainbow in the storms of life. The evening beam that smiles the clouds away, and tints tomorrow with prophetic ray.”

A Renaissance Castle Garden in Italy

The Castle of Este (Castello Carrera) surrounded by beautiful gardens

 Step into the magical medieval world of Carrera Castle in the village of Este. Born at the height of invading war lords and princes during the 13th century, its tall crenelated fortress walls stand stalwart even to this day. Once the “capital” of ancient Venetians, it is now an elegant garden of tranquil beauty.

Situated just south of Padua in the Veneto region, nestled against the feet of the Euganean hills, the castle’s imposing remains are the towns main attraction. Este was a Roman colony since the 2nd century BC. The Estense family erected a castle and fortified the town in the early medieval era. Later, in 1340, the Venetians, along with the Da Carrera family rebuilt some of the castle and enlarged the circle of walls.

Old Statues hidden among the foliage

Several mythical statues appear among the greenery, old and mysterious, like figures out of a Greek play.

Courtly Love

During the Renaissance years, troubadours gathered on the castle grounds from near and far to write and sing their poems of chivalry and courtly love. Art began to flourish, and the senses were reawakened. It was the dawning of a new age, a time for romantic interludes, a rebirth of thoughts and ideas.

Row of mythical gods line the garden walkway as a flag waves atop the Castle Keep

Statue fronts the crenelated castle walls

A statue held together by strands of steel…but they have been standing here for 300 years!

Greenery against ancient stone seemed to transport me back to an earlier time. Wandering the grounds brought images of lords and ladies strolling side by side in their own gardens of delight. Troubadours wrote their poetry and sang at the castle banquets by firelight. 

Benches to rest on and take in the surrounding beauty

Pathway along the gardens

Garden Gate

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English poets Lord Byron and Shelley walked the streets of Este more than a century ago, no doubt mentally composing their compelling verses of poetry while strolling through the castle gardens. Could it be they conversed with the old troubadours of the past, who whispered their inspiration to them among the little groves of blushing pink roses?

Italy’s Historical Cafe Pedrocchi

The Cafe Pedrocchi from the street and the bustling piazza 

Appearing more like a palace than a coffeehouse, the historical Cafe Pedrocchi of Padua has entertained famous literary and political figures since its founding in 1831. Because it was also the largest cafe in Europe, Cafe Pedrocchi became a quick sensation.

Coffee consumption by the bourgeoisie of Europe grew very popular during the 18th century. As a result, in 1772 Francesco Pedrocchi of Bergamo began the original and very successful coffee shop here near the University of Padua, the town hall, and the markets. It became the central hub, the social heartbeat of the city.

Over the marble threshold and into the illustrious cafe. Even the tables are lined up to near perfection!

In 1831, Francesco’s son Antonio expanded the coffee house to cover an entire block by hiring Venetian architect Giuseppe Jappelli to redesign the premise. He integrated different buildings and facades into a single unit, creating an eclectic extension. The interior is neoclassical in style, with marble floors and pillars while adorned with graceful ornamentation.

There are three rooms on the main floor. The Red, White and Green rooms which are the colors of the Italian flag. Upstairs are nine rooms and a museum featuring 19th century Paduan history. Famous artists such as Stendhal, Lord Byron, Dario Fo and several others have spent much time here.

The cafe was heavily damaged in WWII and completely rebuilt in its original neoclassical 19th century splendor. During the war, Italian revolutionaries met here to plan an unsuccessful attempt to overthrow their Austrian occupiers. The walls of Cafe Pedrocchi are imbued with many a conversation.

Baby Grand and a swanky bar

Inside the cafe, the ambience is one of class and elegance. Cafe Pedrocchi is the name of their signature drink, made of piping hot espresso topped with a cold mint creme topping. Luscious!

Delectable morsels brought to the table, accompanied my coffee drink

Finger sandwiches, olives and chips accompanied our drinks and were the perfect addition.

Menu d’Elegance

Many feet have padded over this door mat

Gracious Elegance, the Cafe Pedrocchi

Tall Greek columns and stately lions gave the cafe a very unusual feel. Exotic, stately, classic, the building graced the streets of Padova with a lot of charm. University professors and students, intellectuals, and artists have all spent much time consorting with each other inside the cafe, solving the problems of the world.

It is called a ‘doorless cafe’ because originally it was open 24 hours a day. During the warm weather the doors are thrown wide open and the waiters breeze in and out while attending to every need of those sitting on the veranda and out onto the pedestrian piazza.

It truly is a remarkable landmark in Padua, one that has earned the right to be listed highly in the city’s “hall of fame.”