The Gulf of Poets ~ An Artist’s Muse

The Gulf of Poets as seen from Doria Castle in Portovenere. Below is the medieval street, the carugio, lined by pastel houses with tan roofs.

 

The Golfo dei Poeti, or the Gulf of Poets, is the literary nickname for the Gulf of La Spezia that lies on the Ligurian Riviera just south of the Cinque Terre. The area has long attracted artists and writers, many of them well-known such as Percy Bysshe Shelley, Mary Shelley, Lord Byron, D.H. Lawrence, George Sands, Henry Miller and Virginia Woolf. Surrounded by a surreal landscape of dramatic cliffs and rock formations that inspires mood according to the lighting, the Gulf of Poets is truly a bewitching cove accented by crystalline waters.

Percy and Mary Shelley came to the area in 1819 and stayed in a white-washed villa named Casa Magni, which was situated on the promenade at the tiny village of San Terenzo. It proved to be a place of inspiration for the both of them. The nearby Lerici Castle was supposedly the setting for Mary Shelley’s “Frankenstein” novel, and it was here that Percy composed some of his most beautiful and famous lyrics and songs. Inscribed on the villa itself are his words, “A lovely house close by the soft and sublime scenes of the Bay of Lerici.” Another inscription reads, “I still inhabit this Divine Bay, reading dramas and sailing and listening to the most enchanting music.” They were often visited by Lord Byron, who resided across the bay in Portovenere. It is said that at least once he swam the 7.5 km across the bay to visit his good friends, the Shelley’s. This was a remarkable feat in itself as Lord Byron was known to have a club foot.

Tragically, in 1822, it was in this bay that Shelley lost his life in a drowning accident while sailing his boat, Ariel, from Livorno to San Terenzo. Although a good sailor, he and his two English companions encountered a storm that drove his boat to the bottom of the bay. Shelley’s body and those of his companions were found later washed up on shore. It is believed that his spirit still inhabits the inlets and promontories of the bay.

The villages of the Gulf of Poets include Lerici, Sarzana, Tellaro, San Terenzo, Montemarcello, Portovenere, and the city of La Spezia. There are three islands in the bay; Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. The bay remains vitally active with water sports such as windsurfing, sailing and canoeing.

If you go:

The nearest airports are Pisa and Florence.

* Portovenere can be reached by ferry from La Spezia or Lerici. There is a bus from the train station in La Spezia.
* Lerici can be reached by ferry from La Spezia, Portovenere, and The Cinque Terre. Ferries run from the 1st of April. There’s a scenic drive from La Spezia, and there’s a large car park between San Terenzo and Lerici. A shuttle bus runs between the two, but it is a short walk to either village.
* The best time to visit is Spring or Autumn as the Gulf of Poets can get very crowded in high season.

For details on accommodation, restaurants and other travel information:
♦ www.portovenere.it
♦ www.rivieradellaliguria.com

 

Portovenere’s Cliffside Treasures

San Pietro’s church withstands the ravages of time.

My road trip along the Ligurian coastline  brought me to Portovenere, where I explored its remarkable landmarks overlooking the sea. Panoramic vistas bordered by turquoise waters gave an exotic backdrop to this cliff-side paradise. Portovenere was a place where I longed to linger.

An old archway into the village began my walk through the medieval streets lined with several shops and cafes (see my post Illustrious Portovenere, from Pirates to Rainstorms). After passing through, I came upon the piazza L. Spallanzani. From there I could see the church of San Pietro, the remains of a castle fortress, and the surrounding Bay of La Spezia. I followed the winding pathway up to the top of a cliff that overlooked the Mediterranean Sea, spread out majestically to the far distant horizon.

High up on a rocky spur stands the small but exquisite church of San Pietro. Built upon the ruins of a temple to the goddess Venus, San Pietro became a Christian church in the sixth century. Modified by the Genoese in the thirteenth century, the Romanesque church grew into Gothic dimensions.

Interior of San Pietro church.

As I stepped inside the old church through a single doorway, I was taken by its small but ornate interior. It consists of three naves, the largest in the center with a white marble altar. The gray and white Gothic stripes can be seen on the inside as well as out. It reminded me of the duomo in Siena. This striping effect was a popular Gothic addition to churches at the time.

San Pietro is a popular place for weddings. Any wonder? Piazza L. Spallanzani in the forefront

Historically, San Pietro survived a major fire from the Aragone bombardment in 1494, was ordered to be the battery for Gulf defense by Napoleon, sacked several times, and was occupied by Austrian-Russian troops. Yet there it remains, steadfast and unshakable. I felt captivated by its beauty.

Elegant Arches overlooking the Ocean

This long row of arches is located right next to the church, adding a touch of elegance to the unique setting.

Rugged coastline just below 

Eugenio Montale, in his poem Portovenere, gives thought to its beginnings… “there comes Triton, from the waves that lap the threshold of a Christian temple, and every near hour is ancient…here, you are at the origins.” I kept looking for mermaids playing in the water, or Neptune with his trident! But, unfortunately, they must have been hiding on this cloudy day.

Lord Byron’s Cave in the rock wall at ocean level, where he spent time contemplating. Doria Castle rests above

Have you ever heard of the Bay of Poets? I had, many years ago, and thought it sounded so romantic. I was sure I would visit it one day. Well, here I am. It is just as beautiful as I envisioned.

Lord Byron and his good friend Shelley are responsible for the name. The Bay of Poets is actually the Gulf of La Spezia. Lord Byron lived in Portovenere for a time (see my previous post, “Swim with Lord Byron in the Bay of Poets” for more details). There is a plaque on the church that commemorates Lord Byron’s courage and strength.

Doria Castle, a nice hike up from the church of San Pietro

The Doria Castle fortress above the town was built by the Genoese in 1161 and has been the area’s defense for centuries. The extremely wealthy Doria family were very involved in the political, military and economic life of the Genoese from the twelfth to the sixteenth centuries.

The massive walls come outward toward the base, making the castle appear much larger than it actually is. Today the castle is available for special events, offering an amphitheater and a terrace overlooking the sea.

Castle Interior-Hypostyle Hall built in 1458 with vaulted ceilings supported by 8 pillars

 Arched Stairs leading up to the Castle

Panoramic View from on top of the Castle  

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Below the castle on a cliff is the town cemetery. I passed by the beautiful graves so well-groomed and scattered with flowers.

Town of Portovenere below taken from Doria Castle

Portovenere is a sensational experience. Lord Byron’s words from a poem of his brings visions of this lovely village to my mind. “Be thou the rainbow in the storms of life. The evening beam that smiles the clouds away, and tints tomorrow with prophetic ray.”